Richmond Riverside Walk
Soft light along the Thames in Richmond, London.
‘A huge sea of verdure with crossing and interesting promoters of massive and tufted groves … tenanted by numberless flocks and herds, which seem to wander unrestrained, and unbounded, through rich pastures. The Thames, here turreted with villas and there garlanded with forests, moved on slowly and placidly, like the mighty monarch of the scene, to whom all other beauties were accessories and bore on his bosom a hundred barks and skiffs, whose white sails and gaily fluttering pennons gave life to the whole.’ Sir Walter Scott - The heart of the Midlothian.
Standing upon Richmond Hill takes my breath away, the description above, a testimony to the sea of green before you, laced with the ribbon that is the glinting golden Thames. I have stood there many times, taking in every aspect of what lies beneath, having to remind myself that behind me, the skyscrapers of London.
It was my return to Ham house as a Garden History Guide, that had me back in Richmond. From Nottinghill the District line is about a forty minute ride, passing leafy views through the windows. Been a while, the pandemic, but now in my eleventh year at Ham - so much happened and I thank her quietly for being a constant home from home.
Chose the route along the riverside, down Water Lane, past the cafés and boathouses. In a month or so the banks will fill up with sunbathers on the weekend and rowing boats will pass beneath Richmond Bridge. The tide left pools of river on the path and everyone just steps over or around, apart from the toddlers, and dogs, who cannot resist the temptation. Benches stand guard, overlooking the river, gifts from those who lost a loved one - the inscriptions personal and poignant. Perhaps one day that will be my legacy, to provide a place to rest, read and write poetry on the banks of the majestic river. I think I would like that.
An artist at work beside the riverwalk.
King Henry VII commission the building of Richmond Palace in the 16th century. Named after his earldom of Richmond in Yorkshire. Richmond Park was a favourite amongst royalty for hunting, including Queen Elizabeth I who loved to hunt in the park. Her last days were spent at Richmond Palace, before she died on the 24th March 1603.
The development of the town in the 18th century, and the beautiful Georgian houses that still stand today reflects the elegant lifestyle of the time, and one must visit the Maid’s of Honour Row on the green. Many of the original alley’s, leading to and from the green behind the main street, have the cutest shops to tempt any creative soul.
The walk is slow today, just too pretty in the morning light, past clumps and banks of daffodils. Dog walkers, boots and country gear watch as their beloved canines run free in Petersham Meadows. The cattle will return at some time, all managed by The National Trust. I pass cyclists and friends on their walks, and a few who insist on speaking loudly on mobiles, cutting the silent grace of our surroundings. My mood is light, I ignore them.
Ham House.
It has been too long. For the past eleven years I have made my pilgrimage here, to Ham House. Remembering the early days and starting as a Garden Guide Volunteer, in some of the most trying weather conditions, yet always someone keen to be taken around this 17th Century garden. The Cherry garden, the Wilderness and the Kitchen Garden. In all those years, I have never failed but to love doing the tours, spending time in The Orangerie café before selecting a little something in the shop, always something to take back to Cape Town when the season changes to remind me of my time at Ham.
Tours, like everything else, paused during the pandemic, yet happily a large crowd waiting for me to entertain and educate. Sometimes, like with the walking tours in London, there are questions I cannot answer.. A couple on this walk asked why their hundreds of daffodil bulbs, flowered once, and never again. We were surrounded by them in the garden and I genuinely did not have a definitive answer - perhaps the soil, or moles? If you have any idea, please do tell.
After the tour, it’s down to the tunnel and Volunteers mess room. A single window below ground level lets in rays of light that fall on the blanched table. Sandwiches, kettles, books on garden design and the history of Ham and Richmond - smells of history and comfort. A biscuit tin with cookies with your char. It is a privilege to work with such generous people who give up their time to be here, and it is wonderful that The National Trust offers these shifts to so many who are retired, or have need of company, in need of stimulation and kinship. Been a great honour for me to be part of this, and I sit in the café, filling the rota for my next set of tours.
King Charles II amongst the Greats - Caesars, philosophers and statesmen. Elizabeth was a Royalist, and knew this may impress the King.
A little more about Ham house.
No saunter back to Richmond Station is complete, for me, without a visit to Petersham Nurseries. Discovered this gem many, many years ago, before I lived here. Then it was a struggle for a tourist to find and reach this once small nursery, now a must delight since acquired by the Baglioni family who transformed the nursery into the highly acclaimed restaurant, and café as it is today. The roses are not quite in bloom but so many petals, so many sugar colours …
Friends on the table - drizzle cake for me x
How happily I would live in Richmond and Ham. The little cottage and garden perfectly planned in my mind. Prices here are not for the faint hearted, so for a while longer, I am happy to visit, take in the view on the hill, and walk along the riverside to my beloved Ham. A beautiful walk.